Living the Park life: the Merode/Cinquantenaire neighbourhood

Cinquantenaire Park is a 30-hectare green oasis amid the traffic of Avenue de Tervuren. Its name refers to the celebration of Belgium’s 50th birthday in 1880, the same occasion for which the buildings in the park were built. King Leopold II used them for exhibitions and nowadays the park still has three museums: the Royal Museum of the Army and Military History, the Royal Art and History Museums and Autoworld. The famous triumphal arc was constructed later, in 1905, to honour the country’s economic performance. Besides museums, the park is also home to the city’s oldest mosque, originally commissioned as an oriental pavilion during Belgium’s 50th birthday celebrations, later used as a cultural centre for the Islamic community and in 1967 inaugurated as Brussels’ first mosque.

Not many of us have such a green treasure full of history on our doorstep, but 34-year-old Simon Bergulf is lucky enough to both live and work next to the park. “I grew up in Woluwe and went to school in Etterbeek,” he says. “After a while in Schaerbeek, I moved out of Brussels for a bit, but was more thanhappy to come back to Etterbeek when I was offered a job at the Danish Shipowners’ Association, about four years ago.” Simon lives with his partner and daughter in a stately mansion built in 1916 that once belonged to a baroness.

The streets surrounding the Merode roundabout are paved with shops and eateries, which is one of the things that attracted Simon to the area. “There’s a good mix of houses and offices up my street, so the area doesn’t empty out in the evenings and at weekends.” In terms of food and drink, he’s spoilt for choice. “Brasserie La Terrasse (1 Avenue des Celtes) is probably the best-known bar in the area, with a nice terrace and a good Belgian beer selection,” Simon says. “Around the corner, you’ll find Brussels’ original Capoue ice-cream parlour (36 Avenue des Celtes). On sunny days, their white chocolate flavour with a cuberdon sweetie is a mean combo.” Another famous foodie spot is Maison Lanssens (67 Rue des Tongres), a butcher’s with an excellent reputation when it comes to a barbecue. People will queue to place an order for their famous mini sausages in all kinds of flavours. For a refined culinary experience, Simon recommends Le Buone Maniere (59 Avenue de Tervuren). “It’s by far the best restaurant in the area,” he says. “Chef Maurizio has put together a great upscale Italian menu, and the pasta with truffles is divine. It’s a pricy meal, but they cut the truffles generously, in front of you at the table.” With among other things an (organic) supermarket, fishmonger, cheese shop and the charming Linthout shopping centre up the road, the area has everything it needs. “There are a lot of chocolate shops too,” Simon adds. “Whenever we have visitors in the office, they always pop into the chocolatiers before heading back home to Denmark. I have even managed to do all my Christmas shopping in the area. How convenient is that?”

To stay in shape, Simon takes out his dog or enjoys a run in the park. He says. “The military academy also has great sports facilities in the park, which you can access if you are a local resident.” If you’d rather exercise in a group, the Swedish outdoor exercise organisation Friskis & Svettis (friskis.be) organises workouts and running groups in the park. But you’ll soon notice you’re not the only one running. Some of your co-joggers might even be training for the annualBrussels 20km race, which race starts and finishes in the park. But Cinquantenaire Park isn’t just for fitness fanatics. “There’s always something going on,” Simon says. “When we first moved to Etterbeek, there used to be a drive-in cinema underneath the arch. Unfortunately they no longer screen open-air movies in the park, so if we want to go to the cinema we have to leave the area. Everything else is within walking distance.”

Essential information

Property

For the few stately mansions with a park view on sale, prices per square metre cost around €2,800, but become more affordable in the side streets further away. Renting a two-bedroom apartment will cost about €900 a month on immoweb.be

Transport

Get off at Merode on metro lines 1 and 5, buses 22, 27, 61 and 80 or trams 81 and 83, or travel by train on the Mechelen-Halle line. There are Villo rental bikes near the entrance of the park

Meet the neighbours

A mix of Belgians and European expats. There are also many (international) offices and embassies in the area 

In & around Cinquantenaire Park

Autoworld

Brussels’ famous car museum. 11 Cinquantenaire Park

Cinquantenaire arch

Triumphal arch, erected in 1905, which forms the centrepiece of the park

Capoue

Artisanal ice-cream shop with seven other branches across Brussels. 36 Avenue des Celtes

Simon says: “Despite being so close to the centre, the area is remarkably green and there is easy access to and from the city. On top of that, we’re spoilt for choice in terms of food and drink. There’s a lot of noise from the activities in the park, though: I’m sure my baby daughter wouldn’t mind if people kept a bit quieter during her naps!”

Photos by Natalie Hill