The concept, much like the name, is uncomplicated yet elegant. Belgian-French cuisine with a contemporary twist is served here, in a stately townhouse in the heart of Ghent. Our party of eight is greeted with such smooth professionalism, you’d never guess it is just the second day after opening.

“Britain is the only country in the world where being ‘too clever by half’ is an insult,” the self-important oaf AA Gill once remarked. In Art Brut’s case, it may have cost them the chance to become proper rock royalty. Yes, they could have played it safe all along and garnished their infectious guitar-driven tunes with the usual dross about – yawn – being a rebel, feeling alienated, that sort of thing. Instead, singer Eddie Argos chose to assume an uber-naive persona, his own in fact, and sing his heart out about his record collection, his sweet tooth and his bedroom gaucheness.