The Mons restaurant serves Michelin-quality fish and seafood

Captivating diners with a turbot, the king of fishes, is an easier task than serving up the humbler mackerel and sardine, reflects Benoît Neusy, owner-chef of L’Impératif, one of many Walloon restaurants to join the exclusive Michelin-starred club.

For Neusy, the star was a dream finally come true. “I think we had been cooking at Michelin level for two or three years now. Of course, we are really happy to have the star; it’s important for the whole team,” he says in tribute to his three fellow cooks and front-of-house colleagues. He attributes the award to precision, the choice of extremely fresh produce, “and after that it simply flows naturally”.

His creativity is at its height when associating the restaurant’s trademark fish and seafood with meat. “I love associating the two; lobster with chorizo or foie gras for example. Some customers come especially for our surf and turf menu. Produce from the sea marries well with stronger flavours. Sweetbreads are very subtle, but if you add a highly reduced lobster broth you achieve something powerful that rises above the ordinary.

The dishes coming out of L’Impératif’s kitchen are stunning; culinary art created by an experienced, innovative chef. “My cooking is not sterile: the visual is important but it’s more about the sensation and the taste; the emotion when you eat,” explains Neusy.

This culinary experience takes place in an old farmhouse in Maisières, north of Mons, completely restored by Neusy nine years ago. Situated a short distance from Nato’s military base, Shape, the unassuming red-brick building includes a terrace, small garden and car park. Contemporary decor combines with rustic features; the kitchen overlooks two dining rooms, its interior visible via a large window. Neusy is omnipresent, frequently on hand to advise customers.

They return to L’Impératif for the flexibility of its menus and a la carte options, rare among gastronomic restaurants. Menus change twice every season, la carte four times a year. Entre terre et mer combines surf and turf (four or six courses); Envie d’iode is inspired by the sea; Les reflets de mon marché proposes a choice of starters, while the seasonal main course fish are prepared according to the client’s taste. “It’s not always easy for the kitchen, but it’s my way of working,” says Neusy. “It’s why we offer up to ten more elaborate starters which can be followed by a more simple dish, for which I propose different preparations. It’s original and highly personalised; there’s a menu découverte which also enables customers to say they would like lobster, turbot and scallops and we’ll create a menu around those three elements.”

 This may include turbot, sea bass, John Dory or a less reputed fish, as long as it’s absolutely fresh. “There is a return to more simple products, even if a mackerel or sardine actually requires more work,” states Neusy. Fish and seafood are delivered directly from the Belgian and northern French coast as well as Paris. He orders only whole fish: “We fillet everything ourselves, to guarantee the quality.”

Neusy honed his fish filleting skills at the beginning of his career almost 20 years ago. After catering school in Saint-Ghislain, near Mons, he worked under another chef for a year before launching on his own as a traiteur. The establishment had previously been a fishmonger’s and the owner insisted that he continue. “I spent seven or eight years working with fish and seafood, so when I opened L’Impératif I thought, why not continue, even if this a region not known for fish.”

Neusy believes that his cooking style can also be explained by being self-taught. “I get inspiration from everything, but my cuisine belongs totally to me and does not resemble anyone else’s. When you work for another chef, their style always leaves an imprint,” he explains. One country currently influencing him is Spain: he has recently started collaborating with a five-star hotel in Tenerife by providing a menu. “I’m inspired by Spanish produce and they don’t question serving fish and meat in the same dish as it’s part of their culture; paella, ham and shellfish for example.

If the sea is Neusy’s major resource, local farms are increasingly supplying fresh seasonal vegetables, “for the taste more than anything else”, and the cheese course is provided by Jacquy Cange, a local artisan cheesemonger. Sommelier Rodolphe Quéhé has been at Neusy’s side since the start. Both classic French and New World wines are served. “Since the arrival of the star, clients have been more insistent about ordering Bordeaux,” says Neusy.

The Hainaut province may not be the easiest place for a gastronomic restaurant to thrive, but the reputation and conviviality of L’Impératif continue to flourish. Neusy is happy to report an increase in trade since the Michelin and other gourmet awards. 

This article was first published in the Wab magazine.