Belgian ‘Mad Man’ becomes Texan craft beer sensation

Belgium-born Wim Bens is a prime example of the ongoing popularity of craft brewing in the United States, writes The Exchange’s  Chris Nichols. A native of Belgium whose family brought him to Texas when he was seven years old, Bens left a career in advertising to become a full-time craft-beer maker, and this year his still-young brewery is hoping to complete 4,000 barrels. His company, Garland-based Lakewood Brewing Co., is one of more than 2,000 craft brewers now doing business in the US. Though it's been selling its beer for less than a year, Lakewood is already distributed to around 200 bars and restaurants and some 100 retail carriers, primarily in the Dallas-Fort Worth market. Its roster, which includes the wheat beer Rock Ryder and a stout called The Temptress, features four year-round beers, four ‘seasonals’ and a number of one-time, limited editions. Bens, 35, works alongside a staff of 10 employees to finish roughly 300 barrels of beer a month.  "I never thought I'd turn it into a business," he says. But after studying with the American Brewers Guild, going through an apprenticeship at craft brewer Rahr & Sons in Fort Worth, winning some awards and getting a few dedicated backers, Lakewood was up and running — for the beer, Bens stresses, not for the money.

In his view, the relatively tiny size of the craft industry means there are ample opportunities to convert Americans currently wedded to the big, household names. "If we get 10% of those Miller, Bud and Coors drinkers over to craft beer, then you have a pretty sustainable population," he says. The company's Legendary Series comprises the short-run specials. The first was Brabo's Cut, a Belgian-style dark ale. While inventing these new recipes on a somewhat regular basis might not be easy, Bens says forcing himself to stay creative keeps the craft fun. That perhaps makes up for the actual not-to-be-forgotten work part. "I think people have a very romantic notion of brewing, that the brewer is just stirring the mash with his long paddle," he says. "And he's got a big beard, and there's a soft yellow light coming across the brewery, and he's smelling the hops. The reality is, you're working your ass off, it's 43°C in there, and you're cleaning more than you're doing anything else. That's the reality of the day."