Travel - Zeeland

Just over the Dutch border, Zeeland offers the complete seaside experience

Zeeland’s history will always be linked with water. From its very beginnings roughly 150,000 years ago, the south-western Dutch province has been engaged in a bittersweet relationship with the North Sea. Struggling to keep it out at one moment, basking in the glory of its glistening coastline and pristine beaches the next.

After a devastating flood in 1953 which submerged large areas of the country and resulted in the deaths of nearly 1,800 people, urgent measures were taken to ensure a catastrophe of such magnitude would never happen again. Today, the region is connected by an intricate system of dams, dikes and barriers known as the Delta Works. It’s a network that together with the Zeelandbrug, the Vlaketunnel and the Westerscheldetunnel not only reduced the risk of floods, but also meant a marked improvement in Zeeland’s infrastructure. As an added bonus, the Delta Works created the perfect conditions for water recreation. The unique combination of sea and shallow inland waters spread over 650km of coastline equals plenty of space to surf, sail, swim, fish and even scuba dive.

The Brouwersdam stretches between the islands of Goeree-Overflakkee and Schouwen-Duiveland, closing off a sea arm and creating a placid lake, the Grevelingenmeer. Visit on any given weekend during the surf season between March and October and you’ll notice rows of cars and caravans conveniently parked near the shore. Avid windsurfers and kite surfers arrive at the crack of dawn, bursting with adrenaline and eager to take on the elements. The more experienced thrill-seekers will usually head outside the dike in search of higher waves, while novices prefer to practise their technique on the gentle waters of the Grevelingenmeer. Even on shore, the surfers’ incredible energy is palpable as spectators watch them fly through the water in a spectacular display of speed and daring feats.

Not far from the Brouwersdam is the port village of Scharendijke, also on the Grevelingenmeer. With the Oosterschelde and the North Sea, it’s an indisputable hotspot for scuba divers to discover sea anemones, lobsters, starfish, crabs and other types of marine life, or one of the three recreational shipwrecks sunk there in 2011 at depths of 10, 12 and 29 metres. If you’ve never explored the world below the water or need a diving buddy, Duikcentrum Scharendijke on the Haven Kloosternol offers lessons, guided dives and equipment rental.

Water enthusiasts aren’t the only ones who might want to spend some time in Zeeland. For those who are keen on keeping their feet dry, the land offers sand dunes ideal for long walks, wide stretches of farmland selling everything from regional fruit to cheeses, and quaint towns where terraces invitingly tempt you to sit down for a local beer or a cup of coffee and a sweet, syrupy Zeeuwse bolus (cinnamon bun, a regional speciality). In Zeeland, gourmands can delight in some of Europe’s finest seafood. Plump mussels and oysters, Oosterschelde lobster (often referred to as the Rolls-Royce of its kind) and Stellendam shrimp are well-represented in the menus of many prestigious restaurants. In fact, no other Dutch province boasts as many Michelin-starred restaurants. Perhaps the most acclaimed, not just in the Netherlands, but also in the Benelux region, is Oud Sluis run by Sergio Herman. With three stars to its name, creations combine regional seafood specialities with sublime culinary artistry.

The area has plenty of ‘must-see’ cities and villages, and Renesse is definitely one to add to your itinerary. Every summer, thousands of tourists discover the colourful seaside resort and stay at one of its many accommodation options, whether it be a campsite catering to families with small children or a cosy bed and breakfast perfect for a romantic weekend getaway. Facing the Sint-Jacobuskerk on the town square, a host of restaurants, shops and cafes burst into life as soon as the weather starts to warm up. Don’t forget to check out the market held every Wednesday from May until September. If anything, it’s the perfect excuse to grab an ice cream at Geleijnse Ijssalon and enjoy it while strolling through some of the stalls.

Slightly more bourgeois are Haamstede and Veere. Noordstraat, a pretty, tree-lined street in Haamstede, is a good spot to stop for lunch. In keeping with the seaside theme, try the garlicky fried mussels at La Baguette or have the papardella frutti di mare at Mi Casa. Then head over to Veere and visit the marina dotted with colourful, envy-inducing yachts.

No trip to Zeeland would be complete without a stop at Middelburg. Enclosed within its star-shaped fortifications is a city steeped in culture and historical allure. Two monumental buildings you won’t want to miss are the 12th-century abbey and the Gothic-style town hall, which attests to the city’s Flemish influence. But art isn’t just for admiring. Collectors and connoisseurs can delight in a variety of galleries and interesting antique shops.

When it comes to watersports, there’s no better place to get some serious kicks than in Zeeland, yet on land there’s still plenty to keep you amused and entertained. Add to that more hours of sunshine than the rest of the country and it’s easy to see why the neighbouring province is such an attractive holiday destination. Enough reasons to cross the border and indulge in a little healthy sea air.

USEFUL ADDRESSES

ZEIL- EN SURFCENTRUM BROUWERSDAM

Surfing lessons, equipment, restaurant and group accommodation

1 Ossenhoek Ouddorp

ZEERUST

Simple rooms and restaurant offering a selection of seafood specialities. Within walking distance of the beach

1 Rampweg, Renesse

ZEE, WATER EN SCHUIM

Colourful gift shop with clothing, home accessories and toys

28 Markt, Veere

BED EN BROOD

Luxury bed and breakfast in the heart of Veere with spacious, tastefully decorated rooms

7 Kerkstraat, Veere

DELTAPARK NEELTJE JANS

Water park with rides, seals and information about the Delta Works

Eiland Neeltje Jans

5 Faelweg Vrouwenpolder

VVV ZEELAND

A good starting point for planning your trip

www.vvvzeeland.nl

HOW TO GET THERE

From Brussels:

Take the E19 in the direction of Antwerp then exit to the A12 towards Bergen-op-Zoom. At Markiezaat junction take A58 to Goes/Vlissingen then exit 38 towards Middelburg