Talking languages

Apart from chocolate and beer, the one thing Belgium is famous for worldwide is probably its language divide. But if you learn a few simple tricks, that problem needn’t interfere with your life here.

First, let’s be clear what we’re talking about: Belgium has three official languages. German is spoken in the so-called eastern cantons in Wallonia, and nowhere else. French is the language of Wallonia (not Walloon, which is a dialect) and in Brussels. Dutch (and not Flemish) is also spoken in Brussels, and in Flanders.

The main rule is – speak the language of the place you are, if you can. That almost goes without saying. If you don’t speak the local language, however, your options depend on where you are.

In Flanders (West Flanders, East Flanders, Antwerp province, Flemish Brabant and Limburg) it’s not a good idea to assume French is the second choice. At the coastal resorts and in Bruges it will probably be accepted (local businesses are used to massive numbers of tourists from inland) but elsewhere English is likely to be better received. Flemish people on the whole speak English fairly well to very well indeed, but that may not be the case in smaller towns and villages, so keep that in mind.

People in Wallonia (Hainaut, Namur province, Liège province, Luxembourg province and Walloon Brabant) have traditionally been less able to speak languages other than French, but that’s changing with time. Children now spend as much if not more time in school learning English; however, the older generations may still be some way behind.

In Brussels, the language you’ll come across most is French, spoken not only by native Belgians but also the immigrant population. Dutch is an official language for all administrative purposes, and many businesses are bilingual. However while many shopkeepers or waiting staff may be Dutch speakers, it should never be a problem to speak to them in French.

Dotted around Brussels, meanwhile, in the territory of Flemish Brabant, are six local municipalities which have what are called ‘language facilities’. They are Drogenbos, Kraainem, Linkebeek, Sint-Genesius-Rode, Wemmel and Wezembeek-Oppem. Here you’ll find many French-speakers, and if you’re a resident you can have your official papers supplied to you in French after making a specific request to the local authority.

Many English-speakers find it odd that local municipalities cannot help them in English, even though the staff may speak the language well. They’re not being difficult: aside from the general point of maintaining the local character of the area, they’re also careful not to give out what is essentially official information in a foreign language, which could lead to mistakes and confusion. Imagine a Flemish person trying to speak to town hall staff wherever you come from in Dutch, and you’ll understand the problem.

The second rule is the same as in any foreign country: if you can’t speak their language, ask politely if you may use English (parlez-vous anglais/spreekt U engels?).

When it comes to business communications, life is considerably easier for the English-speaker. Brussels has many large international companies, and even local companies now trade more and more abroad, so it should not be a problem if you’re calling up to ask for someone who speaks English.

It’s good to talk

Should you arrive here knowing one or neither of the two official languages, all sorts of classes are available. Check first if your local municipality (in the Brussels region) offers classes, which are cheap, or even free, but which tend to be large groups. Otherwise the main contact for learning Dutch is the House of Dutch (www.huisnederlandsbrussel.be), which can tailor classes to your needs. For French classes, the first port of call is the Alliance Française (www.alliancefr.be). There are also many private language schools such as Amira (www.amira.be) and Berlitz (www.berlitz.be), but those can be quite expensive. On the other hand, the big names are at least reliable. For smaller, less familiar schools, go by personal recommendation or ask on the Bulletin website (www.thebulletin.be).

Once you start learning, there’s no substitute for speaking to real people in real-life situations if you want to make progress. Sure, they’ll talk too fast and you’ll miss most of what they’re saying, but you’ll get more pleasure out of each day’s tiny advances, and you’ll speak the language better as a result. Try to avoid the temptation to slip back into English when they see you floundering. You’ll never get anywhere that way.

If your circle doesn’t yet include any native speakers, there are conversation tables organised locally, where foreigners are brought together with natives to practise their spoken language. Examples include Café Combinne, a Dutch chat cafe (www.cafecombinne.be), and the more advanced tables organised by Cercle Royal Polyglotte (http://users.swing.be/polyglot.be). Again, posting a question on www.thebulletin.be  might help turn up something near where you live.