Le Sanglier des Ardennes: a spa hotel in Durbuy for pampering and gastronomic dining

Occupying pride of place in the heart of the town, Le Sanglier des Ardennes has an enviable position overlooking the River Ourthe while lying in the shadow of Durbuy’s imposing medieval castle. Dating from the 17th century, the compact and picture-perfect destination is one of the Ardennes’ major tourist magnets.

It’s another mild autumn afternoon as we enter the bluestone hostelry via a wide terraced façade. The reception occupies a discreet corner while a maze of rooms dominate the extensive ground floor. We can’t resist a quick peek at the large retro-furnished lounge while navigating an inviting corner bar and heading up to our room. The labyrinth continues upstairs before walking into our room and delightedly discovering double aspect windows with a panoramic view of the river, castle and Christmas market preparations below. Consisting of a living room/study, double bedroom with en-suite bathroom complete with separate rainfall shower, it’s a cosy but luxurious eyrie. Decor is all contemporary neutrals, with animal print textiles adding a homespun touch. It’s difficult to ignore the deep cushioned window seats, but this mini break includes a spot of unwinding in the hotel spa, so we beat a hasty retreat to the upper floor.

The family-owned hotel has undergone major renovation. While the façade retains its historic features, its waterside rear reveals all of the modern refurbishment. The spa occupies the same corner as our suite, albeit with even more of a crow’s nest view, while a terrace and covered outdoor jacuzzi are in sightline of the fortress chateau. This fortunate perspective makes it a light and seemingly limitless space.

I’m here for a facial, though, and am swiftly transported from the Ardennes thanks to the deft, fluttering fingers of an experienced beautician and the organic Italian Salin de Biosel products that she skilfully applies. I lose count of the creams, gel, exfoliant, elixir and potions that sooth my apparently thin, dry skin. And there’s no hesitation when I’m asked if I’m capable of keeping my eyes completely closed for ten minutes as she smothers my face and eyelids with a soothing mask before dimming the lights. A final antioxidant cream and I’m ready to face the world, having never experienced such plumped and hydrated skin. It would be a shame to subject such pampered skin to the rigours of a spa, so I settle into a terrace lounger and sip some tea. As well as the beauty and treatment centre and jacuzzi, the spa area consists of a sauna and hammam with cold water mists, multiple showers set into the ceiling, an ice fountain, fitness area and boutique.

But the highlight of our stay is yet to come. Le Sanglier des Ardennes, as its name denotes, specialises in regional terroir cuisine and we’re about to enjoy the gastronomic menu with a selection of wines. Spas are thirsty work so for the aperitif we settle down into one of the many plush sofas filling the lounge. There’s an alternative non-smoking bar attached to the restaurant, all sleek furnishings, but the former is too inviting with its dark wood furniture, liqueur trays, log fire, and not a whiff of smoke. The house champagne, Le Sanglier’s own label, is accompanied by cold and then warm tapas titbits. Service has only started, but the team of friendly and attentive waiters already have us smitten. We are duly accompanied to the dining room, yet another cosy corner setting with sound-absorbing carpet, contemporary furniture and warm red-hues brightening the natural colour tones.

The first starter, a foie gras parfait of hen pheasant rolled in a gingerbread crumb, is a totally unctuous experience and pretty as a picture with dots of beetroot, ginger and mandarin. Melba toast is a necessary side as is the accompanying wine, a Muscat from the Gard region of France. It’s less cloying than a sweet Sauternes and subtly and fragrantly matches the ginger-studded rich liver pate. Our only critique is that a single serving would probably have sufficed for the pair of us. Fortunately, the second starter of scallops, crayfish and mini herb ravioli is a light, spring-like dish, were it not for a bed of sleek winter leeks. The wine pairing is similarly spot-on, a white Beaujolais chardonnay from the Château de Durette. My companion, wine aficionado and possessor of a discerning palette, is now waking up. This is a surprise choice, yet the subtly floral notes are perfect.

This being game season, the main, a loin of hare, may be less of a revelation, but is nevertheless a colourful and astutely balanced dish. The tender rare morsels are offset by a celeriac purée with amandine potatoes and strewed Brussels sprout leaves. The sommelier pours a blackcurrant red Château Puybarbe Côtes de Bourg 2012 merlot cabernet and with no hesitation, we tuck in.

From observing our neighbours’ empty plates, it appears that a chocolate mousse dessert is to round off the menu. But the kitchen, observant of my companion’s lactose intolerance, delivers an alternative pudding in the form of a warm pear sponge with mandarin sorbet. Despite our near satiated appetites, it’s a welcome and light treat. A delicious sweet Chorus Frontignan Muscat provides a perfect final flourish.

Chef Frédéric Cardinael oversees the kitchen at Le Sanglier des Ardennes and Brasserie Fred, a cheerful and contemporary styled bistro accessible from the street. His direction extends to other hotels and restaurants in Durbuy, notably Le Vieux Durbuy and Le Victoria. In a town that is certainly not lacking in hotels and eateries, the Sanglier ensemble retains its prime spot. It hosts seminars, a popular Sunday brunch and themed packages throughout the year. The artisan Christmas market is currently drawing the crowds, but Durbuy is as delightful off-season.