It's Carnival time in Belgium!

As Mardi Gras or Shrove Tuesday looms, forget tossing pancakes and head to one of the many towns celebrating the ancient festival. But beware old ladies wielding scissors and masked men lobbing oranges and onions.

On the eve of Lent, folklore societies are preparing to primp and preen their precious costumes before hitting the streets in a custom that dates back thousands of years. The ritual of carnival originated in pagan times when winter spirits were driven out to encourage the beginning of spring. In Belgium the custom has remained as authentic as ever, with membership of the various folklore groups a rare honour and a major commitment, both in time and money. Visitors and tourists now join locals in participating in the merrymaking, which continues until Easter.

Don’t forget to taste one of the many regional specialities served up during carnival that are an alternative to the traditional pancakes. Our favourites are the sweet meringue Baisers de Malmedy, deep-fried choux-pastry Pets-de-nonne and patisserie cream-filled doughnut-esque Boules de Berlin. 

Aalst – February 9 to 12

Flanders’ carnival crown is the 85th annual festival in the Flemish Brabant town of Aalst (below), which joined Unesco’s prestigious cultural heritage list in 2010. The highlight is Sunday’s parade (13.00) when tens of thousands of visitors cheer festooned floats with larger-than-life characters mocking local politicians and celebrities. Parades continue on Monday (14.00) when onion-throwing recalls the time when there were numerous onion farms in the area. On Tuesday, the Dirty Jennies (Voil Jeanetten) take over the Grote Markt (15.00): they’re local men dressed in short skirts, corsets, fishnet tights and wigs. Be warned: carnival parties continue all night long, and you should consider dressing up if you want to join in! 

Knokke-Heist – February 10 to 12

If you’re visiting the coast over half-term, check out Knokke-Heist’s carnival, which begins with a mass to fishermen lost at sea and continues in the afternoon with a parade featuring giant puppets Pier and Wanne. Monday is Sprotjesdag when cafes hand out free sprats (17.00-19.00). Tuesday kicks off with a costumed football game between the Vissers (fishermen) and Plakkers (plasterers), a tradition that dates from 1928. The festivities end with an evening procession through the town centre.

Binche – February 10 to 12

Belgium’s most illustrious carnival is in Binche (top), a medieval walled town in the heart of Hainaut’s post-industrial wasteland. Dating from at least the 16th century, the party has had Unesco recognition since 2003. The pinnacle is Tuesday’s parade of more than 900 Gilles, a select brotherhood of men dressed in distinctive black, yellow and red heralded costumes, painted wax masks and white hoods and capes that are later swapped for rare ostrich-plumed headgear when they pelt onlookers with oranges. This ceremony is but one of many gracing the three-day celebrations that follow a strict timetable. There is a firework finale on Monday night. Binche has a museum dedicated to its famous carnival, which is open all year round.

For a flavour of the Binche carnival and its historical background, read this article from WAB Magazine.

Eastern Belgium

The French- and German-speaking communities of this lesser-known part of the country all host carnival parties with distinctive variations. The majority take place between February 7 and 12 while Stavelot and its famous white Blancs Moussîs figures make a later appearance on March 9 to 11.

Malmedy – February 9 to 12

Known as Le Cwarmê in local Walloon dialect, the four-day festivities in Malmedy have been celebrated since at least the 15th century. The arrival of the Grosse Police on Saturday heralds a series of parades that continue until midnight on Shrove Tuesday. During Saturday’s procession the famed Haguète wields his hape-tchâr – long wooden pincers that reach out and grab bystanders, forcing them to their knees until they say they’re sorry. Hape-tchâr translates literally as ‘flesh-snatcher’, so be warned. Sunday sees a long parade through the small town and the dance of the Haguètes, Malmedy’s principal carnival characters. On Shrove Tuesday all the carnival societies take to the streets and the event comes to a close with the burning of the Haguète in the evening.

Eupen – February 7 to 12

Nicknamed Crazy Days, the madness in Eupen starts on Thursday with the Old Ladies parade. Beware anyone wearing a tie as one of the ladies may cut it off as a trophy. This tradition goes back to the 19th century, when women couldn’t take part in official carnival activities; in response they launched their own party a day earlier. There is a children’s parade on Sunday, followed by a major procession on Monday called Rosenmontag or Rose Monday after the tradition of throwing paper roses along the parade route. Hundreds of floats precede the Carnival Prince, who’ll greet all visitors with a hand gesture and his traditional greeting, ‘alaaf!’. The event ends when the prince returns the keys of the town to the town hall.

Brussels

The carnival tradition may have died out in the capital but at the Museum of Fantastic Art, families can visit the Carnival of the Witches of Tarkham from February 9 to 17. Try a special witch’s brew which has to be boiled and then downed during the four days preceding Shrove Tuesday.