The history of the Belgian capital comes alive in ‘Phantoms in Brussels’ show until 9 March

From the Manneken Pis to Maria Callas, Brussels is full of history – and Phantoms in Brussels brings the city’s rich past to life in an exciting, interactive way.

The Belgian capital’s stories are also told in the capital’s most iconic building – the gorgeously Gothic 15th century town hall – and narrated by its famous archangel Saint-Michael, the city’s protector, who is perched atop its spire.

One of the most creative aspects of this show, running until 9 March, is the marriage between the real, unreal and virtual. For example, spectators are introduced to the original 1695 Charles II painting by an actor in period dress, as well as through special headsets. In the council chamber, holograms and a judge explain that all major decisions affecting Brussels dwellers are made by mayors.

This fascinating visit is not only a traditional history lesson. In addition to the main characters, including King Léopold, Charles Quint and Marie-Thérèse of Austria (pictured above), we hear less about their reigns and more about their quirks. Louis XIV’s wife bore him 16 children and King Charles V was the “most Belgian of all the Hapsburgs” as he loved his beer and food.

Meanwhile, Brussels’ main historical events such as its 1695 bombardment by Louis XIV’s troops, the resulting fire, and the burying of the Senne river because it was “an open sewer” harbouring disease, are enhanced by glorious colours, video mapping and original classical and modern music. Notably, the triumphant moment in 1830 when Belgium became, well, Belgium, is played out to Kool and the Gang’s Good Time Tonight.

Much of the city’ past resonates today. The river Senne was pushed underground to make way for new housing and the Paris-rivalling ‘grands boulevards’. But the people forced to relocate deplored the 19th century ‘gentrification’. This scenario has been repeated in the 1960s destruction of the area around Brussels North station – the so-called Manhattan Project to create a business district – and remains ongoing with the Palais Du Midi currently doomed due to Metro 3 expansion works.

This spectacle also shines for recounting lesser-known facts, that the Belgian nobility and the bourgeoisie needed to govern together until the eighteenth century, dubbed “the prototype of the Belgian compromise”; that mayor Adolphe Max was responsible for commissioning in 1935 the Victor Horta masterpiece Palais des Beaux Arts, now known as Bozar; or, simply that Brussels has welcomed a total of 350 mayors.

The backdrop to the entertainment of course is sublime: the sumptuous Gothic woodwork, beautiful Brussels tapestries from the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries hanging in reception rooms and aldermen’s chambers mix with the mock-up plastic feast food at the king’s banquet. Not to mention the elegant stairs, claimed to have been trodden by 200,000 feet as well as your own.

And we end the journey as it was begun with Saint-Michael despairing “that architect has jumped off the tower again, he thinks it’s his fault...” Legend has it that the town hall’s architect killed himself as he was so upset the tower was not exactly in the middle of the building, resulting in the left and right parts being not quite the same size.

But just before we say goodbye to the beautiful home of Belgian kings, we are invited to take part in a real ceremony – yet again, a case of the past becoming the present in a most original way. Charles V and his queen reward us for taking the tour by inviting us to kneel on cushions and he puts 'gold' chains around our necks. It makes for a perfect photo opportunity!

The 45-minute shows are daily, every hour from 14.00 to 19.00. Tickets are priced at €25 with discounts for families and groups.

Phantoms in Brussels
Until 9 March
Town Hall
Grand Place
Brussels

Photos: Tour des Sites