Takigawa

I might as well confess immediately: my knowledge of Japanese cuisine is limited. Mostly to wasabi-flavoured bar snacks and, very occasionally, pre-packed westernised sushi approximations. Meanwhile, a few of my acquaintances marvel like true connoisseurs at restaurants where exorbitant prices and rude service are “telltale signs of authenticity”. Now, call me old-fashioned, but I tend to dislike being fleeced or growled at. But then along comes Takigawa, and suddenly everything is how it should be.

The food at Takigawa is mostly Japanese-for-beginners, but there is also, for intermediate-to-expert foodies, a lengthy list of high-end sushi and sashimi of the utmost freshness. One in particular, priced at €80, must be exceptionally good – another time, maybe. My companion and I both settled, over an ice-cold Asahi beer, for the €38 tasting menu, which came in three waves of bite-sized nibbles bursting with flavour – literally, in the case of the fish roe dumplings in broth, the eggs deliciously popping in the mouth. Other winners included grilled salmon, miso soup, tuna and salmon sashimi and an asparagus dish served almost raw.

Less successful were fatty, skin-on chicken morsels and unpleasant jack-mackerel sashimi. Finally, a plate of feather-light tempura vegetables for me and, across the table, some exquisite sushi rolls. For dessert, we were served highly moreish white sesame ice cream. The bill came to €107, of which a very sensible €23 accounted for a lovely Premières Côtes de Blaye. An excellent meal – and this old-fashioned diner rather enjoyed the friendly service, too. 

81 Rue du Mail, tel 02.544.18.81