Etiquette

The décor is spacious, modern and inviting. Walls are covered by photos of Mick Jagger, Steve McQueen and other vintage stars knocking back booze, and blackboards behind the bar advertise the day’s liquid offers. There’s a cluster of high tables with bar stools that fill up with after-office tipplers in the evening, when there’s an inventive tapas menu featuring nibbles like octopus with fennel, sardine and preserved lemon rillettes or chorizo tapenade.

More substantial dishes are served at lunchtime. The menu is short, with dishes that are fresh, simple, and, for the most part, excellent. Starters included smoked mozzarella with a green apple and mâche salad or carrot velouté with pine nuts: both delicious. For the mains, a juicy breast of guinea fowl was perfectly matched with roast butternut squash; a fillet of pollack was served en bouillabaisse, topping a rich provençal broth.

Featured wines included a smoky Margaux, some smooth Mâcon-Lugny chardonnay and a crisp vidiano from Crete. If any of them take your fancy, you can buy a bottle or crate from the pleasingly cluttered shop that takes up the front third of Etiquette. 

19 Avenue Emile de Mot, tel 02.644.64.11, www.etiquette-wines.com