Explore Belgium: Flemish Brabant boasts nature, the country’s biggest arboretum and breweries galore

The Flemish Brabant province is a stone’s throw from the capital but a breath of non-city fresh air. While Leuven is the undisputed ‘must-see’ city, Tervuren, Halle, Diest and Tienen all offer tourist delights. The region also revels in beautiful castles, gardens and recreational domains for family fun.

Leuven

The jewel of Flemish Brabant’s crown, this lively student city with a world-class university is a perfect day trip from Brussels at any time of year – from its vibrant spring carnaval to gorgeous Christmas market. Handily, the main sights are in easy walking distance of the station. Parallel shopping streets Bondgenotenlaan and Diestlaaan, lined with mainstream and independent stores and a Neoclassical theatre, lead you to the stunning Gothic town hall and Sint-Pieters church and treasury. A short detour away is Monseigneur Ladeuzeplein, graced not only by the beautiful university library and tower offering amazing views, but also by Jan Fabre’s sky high green beetle sculpture.

From here, cross Herbert Hooverplein to delightful Sint Donatus park with its follies, lakes and modernist ‘amphitheatre’. Then a walk down Naamsestraat lined with impressive college buildings, some 600 years old, brings you to one of the town’s star attractions. The filmset pretty, Unesco-recognised Béguinage – dating from  the 13th century – once housed some 360 béguines in its charming complex complete with church, bridges and streams.

This former refuge and home for lacemakers is near the charming Dijlepad walk. Other green spots in the provincial capital include Belgium’s oldest botanical garden, created by the university for its medical students in 1738 and boasting some 450m² of greenhouses; the beautifully wild Park Keizersberg; and just outside the city, Park Arenbergkasteel and Abdij van Park (pictured above). Crowded with students in summer, the abbey houses the intriguing PARCUM museum of religious art and culture. A little further, lakeside Kessel-Lo domain is playground heaven for kids.

The city If in search of culture, look no further than the M Leuven art mecca, with modern as well as Flemish masters. Leuven also offers a zoology museum and two additional gems – a scout and guiding and a medical history museum with the latter housed in an actual hospital.

is famous for its signature beer. A trip to the majestic red brick Stella Artois brewery in the Vaartkom district highlights its industrial heritage. Picturesque, self-guided walks are possible around Leuven harbour and port, featuring the imposing De Hoorn and Opek buildings.    

Halle

No need to take the 10-minute train ride from the capital to this delightful little town. The wonderful ‘cycle highway’ brings you here along the Brussels-Charleroi canal. Driving is simple too, with free parking just outside the city. The centre is pedestrianised, making shopping easy. All streets seem to lead to the beautiful Grote Markt with its Gothic town hall and bustling cafés, some serving eggnog with your coffee. Don’t miss 14th century Saint Martin’s Basilica with its stained glass and ‘Black Madonna’.

For sport and relaxation, wander through peaceful Albertpark, dotted with sculptures that include playing children. If you are more aqua-inclined, try Sportoase with its tropical leisure pool, slides and spa. There is also a skateboard park, ‘water’ playground and myriad canal walk opportunities.

For culture, look no further than Den Ast museum, which describes Halle’s fascinating history and traditions. Set in a former malting plant – an industrial heritage gem – the museum also features local painter Louis Thévenet. His work is also displayed in stately ‘neo-Palladian’ early 20th century Villa Servais as part of the 150th commemoration of the artist’s birth. English-style cream teas can be enjoyed every weekend in this beautiful establishment, which is also a luxury place to stay.

If contemporary culture is more your style, opt for the Street Art Tour that features Gooze & Bozik’s 2,000m² Het betoverde bos (The enchanted forest) – one of Europe’s largest murals. And for culinary delights, try a Halle blood sausage, a Boon Gueuze from Belgium’s last Gueuze distillery in Lembeek, Vaantjeskoek biscuits or caramel ‘krotten’ sweets.

Icing on the cake, and attracting thousands of visitors a day, nearby Hallerbos hosts a breathtaking array of bluebells every spring. It draws thousands of visitors who marvel at the ephemeral natural floral display. The wonderful blue carpet is now easy to get to, with free shuttle buses from Halle station.

Tervuren

At the end of Brussels’ green and pleasant Tram 44 route lies Tervuren. Its star attraction is the gargantuan, ‘new and improved’, especially on the ethical front, AfricaMuseum. Another big draw, especially for architecture buffs, is Belgian architect Henry van de Velde’s La Nouvelle Maison. Built in 1927 as his family home, the Modernist, almost Bauhaus-esque building lies in a beautiful ‘English cottage’ style quarter near the town centre.

At the museum (pictured above), which also offers an AfricaMuseumQuest for children, pick up a guided walk of nearby attractions including 13th century Gothic Sint-Jan Evangelist church, the huge Tervuren park and lakes that are perfect for short or longer strolls, St Hubert Chapel and the Horseshoe (old coach house and stables). The green delights continue with Tervuren’s extensive arboretum that contains some 700 tree species. The park also serves as an ideal springboard for exploring the extensive and ancient Sonian Forest.

A top 10 guided walks guide is available from the tourist office. One focuses on the town’s artistic heritage. Several 19th century artists, enchanted by the wooded area, formed the ‘Tervuren school’, headed by Hippolyte Boulenger. Some of their work was displayed in the town’s charming Hof van Melijn – the former farm-turned-museum – set to be reborn as an arts centre in 2025.

Diest

Surrounded by stunning parkland and the Citadel wood, Diest has a beautiful béguinage (pictured below) to rival Leuven’s. Founded in 1253 by Arnold IV, Lord of Diest, and dissolved by the French in 1796, most of its 90 houses and convents date from the 17th and 18th centuries. This Unesco-recognised gem is an insight into another world. Other highlights include the cobbled Grote Markt with its 15th century Lakenhalle, a fascinating history Hofstadt museum, the revered Catholic ‘saint’ Jan Berchmans’ birthplace (he was born in 1599) and the delightful Ezeldijk mill, erected by the Princes of Orange-Nassau in 1553.

The lively town, a mix of medieval and new, possesses a great selection of shops, cafes and terraces in a compact, easily walkable area. Just beyond, lies the wonderful Halve Maan domain (pictured) with its pools, playgrounds, parks and boating lake. Also offering a tree climbing trail, mini golf, even its own beach, Halve Maan is perfect for a family day out.  

Tienen

This charming location with a well-preserved old town features two completely different attractions. Check out the rituals of life and death at het Toreke Gallo Roman museum (pictured above) or take a fascinating trip to Tienen’s sugar refinery. ‘Tirlemont’, created back in 1836, is a major Belgian brand of the sweet stuff including the special pearl sugar for Liège waffles and cassonade. For more Roman history, visit the villas and bathhouses of the Mellenberg site.

If in search of peace and quiet, the Béguinage, arguably Belgium’s second oldest, with its ruined Gothic church, is delightful. To sate hunger pangs, head to the cobbled stone Grote Markt with its wealth of eateries and locally produced marzipan or chocolate. Last but not least, kids will adore the parks, a pool and Heldenland – a veritable play paradise with slides and swings made from industrial materials.

Elsewhere in the province

Nothing if not green, Flemish Brabant’s environmental delights include the Coloma rose garden (pictured above), annual tulip display at Groot Bigaarden Castle (much closer than Amsterdam), Meerdael forest and Vilvoorde’s Versailles-style Park Drie Fonteinen. You also cannot overlook Meise Botanic Garden – one of Europe’s finest. Its endless greenhouses sport Tik Tok friendly plants including the scary Titan arum. Otherwise known as the ‘corpse plant’, it is billed as the world’s largest flower.

The area additionally features Hoegaarden’s pleasure gardens, including unsurprisingly one for beer to match the town’s museum, Flanders’ largest inland lake at Zoutleeuw and endless nature and cycling trails. The region further oozes picturesque castles like Horst, Arenberg, Groot-Bijgarden, Beersel and Gaasbeek. The latter is open to the public and holds offbeat and original art exhibitions every year.

Other cultural delights include top quality art collections in Drogenbos FeliXart museum (pictured) and Aarschot’s anything-but-dull city history museum complete with the town’s special Bruine beer in its ‘t Bruine café. This town near Leuven also boasts De Gasthuis cultural centre and a charming sculpture trail, taking in the meandering Demer river.

For children, highlights include Huizingen provincial domain with its charming mini zoo and seasonal attractions such as a mini-train, mini cars, mini golf and (not mini) trampolining. Further afield, Hofstade-Bloso domain in Zemst contains a sports museum and its own beach, while Diest has a fantastic outdoor pool and a 54-metre water slide. For more adult aquatic fare open all-year-round, try the fabulous spa and sauna centres complete with outdoor pools at the Thermae Grimbergen, Thermae Boetfort, Thermen Dilbeek and Groot  Waer Waters in Groot-Bijgaarden.

For something a little different, see stars at the MIRA public observatory, try out old farming and industrial equipment at de MOT museum for old techniques (both in Grimbergen), or hop on a canal boat at Vilvoorde. This small town’s rejuvenated, vibrant and café-full port area welcomes a regular April to October river bus service from Brussels.

Finally, Flemish Brabant is not only a haven for beer and home-brewed gueuze. Wezemaal hosts the Hageland wine production centre. Its wine has been famous from the middle ages. And finally, for local customs galore, Kampenhout’s De Krop not only features a fascinating chicory museum, but it also houses the Brabant musical traditions centre. This contains 1940-born violinist and bagpipe player Hubert Boone’s collection of more than 50 regional instruments including accordions, bagpipes and the intriguingly named hummel (a type of zither).

Photos: Leuven city centre ©Visit Leuven; Winterland Groot Begijnhof ©KoenBauters; Leuven Abbey Park ©Cedric Verhelst; Museum M ©Visit Leuven; Bluebells in Hallerbos ©Belga; Beguinage Diest ©Lander Loeckx; Coloma rose garden ©Lander Loeckx; FeliXart Museum ©Lander LoeckxHageland wine region ©Toerisme Vlaams Brabant