Come all ye faithful

A group of enthusiasts is working to make churches a regular part of the Brussels tourist scene.

We all know the big attractions that bring tourists to Brussels: the unholy trinity of beer, food and chocolate. But, while Brussels may not be Florence, it still has a rich church heritage, and bringing it to the attention of residents and tourists alike is the mission of Animation Chrétienne et Tourisme, a non-profit that sets out to “make Brussels’ religious art heritage more widely known and more accessible”.

To that end, they organise free tours of a number of churches, among them Our Lady of Finisterre, St. Nicholas Church and St. Michael and St. Gudula Cathedral. I joined one of the organisation’s volunteer guides for a tour of the  Church of Mary Magdalene, in cooperation with Broodje Brussel, the programme of lunchtime cultural activities in the capital.

The Church of Mary Magdalene sits between Central Station and the Grand-Place, on the corner of the Putterie and the street that used to be known simply as la chaussée – it was one of the few paved streets in the city. You’d be forgiven for walking past it without noticing, but the tiny church, which traces its history back to the 13th century, when it was a mere chapel attached to a cloister, contains several treasures.

It was renovated in the 15th century, only to be destroyed by protestant forces, then restored in the 1950s according to the original plans. Since then it has survived an even greater threat than either protestants or Napoleonic bombardment: the razing of large parts of the city to construct the North-South rail link. Inside, the church is simple and modest, the only adornment a crucifix in iconic style, a set of Stations of the Cross in ceramic and a statue of Father Damien, the famous Flemish missionary to the lepers in Hawaii. Most striking are the modern stained-glass windows above the altar by 20th-century Bruges artist Michiel Martens, which tell the story of the Gospel.

Animation Chrétienne et Tourisme offers free tours on request in any of the city centre churches or on a sort of à la carte tour of Baroque church sites in Brussels.

Tel 02.219.75.30; www.actasbl.be

This article first appeared in Flanders Today