Address to impress: the Flagey neighbourhood

The name Rue Malibran might not ring a bell to non-locals, but you’ll definitely know the square it connects to: Place Flagey in Ixelles. The street is named after Maria Malibran, a Franco-Spanish mezzo-soprano. One of the most famous opera singers of the 19th century, Maria briefly lived on the street with her Belgian violinist husband, Charles Auguste de Bériot. Unfortunately, Rue Malibran is better known today as a bit of a traffic hotspot, but there is a lot more to it than snarling tailbacks. 

Twenty-six-year-old Noémie Nuo has lived on the street for five years, in a flat she shares with her boyfriend and her sister. In March 2010, she decided to open a store, called Wake Up!, which she ran until December last year. The shop was on the ground level of her flat, and there she designed and sold her own clothes as well as other African-inspired brands and urbanwear from all over Europe. “What once was our kitchen became my shop and gallery,” Noémie says. “There weren’t many shops like mine around, but with the affordable rent and the many people walking by on their way to Flagey, it seemed a good idea to open my shop here.” Wake Up! will soon be relaunched as an online store.

The area is home to a large Moroccan and Turkish community, which explains the four halal butchers, and the numerous convenience and grocery stores. “I love the corner shop just across from my shop,” Noémie says. “The fruit and vegetables are always fresh and at a very competitive price.” Rue Malibran also has a few shops selling treats from other countries. For port wine, bacalhau (dried salted cod), cold meats and pastry imported directly from Portugal, visit Nova Primavera (80 Rue Malibran); for bitter leaf, little hot peppers, spices and curry sauces, go to the Asian Food Store, and for cosmetic or culinary treats made from Moroccan Argan oil, pop into L’Arganier. It’s no surprise that most eateries in the street mainly serve Turkish or Moroccan cuisine. “I’m quite fond of the Turkish pizza at Istanbul,” Noémie says. “My favourite one is topped with a mix of Turkish cheeses.” Another place that comes highly recommended is La Perle d’Orient, famous for its sweet tea and biscuits as well as savoury bites and couscous. Besides all the visible Arabic influences in the street, there’s one that is slightly hidden: the El Mouhagirine Mosque, in a typical terraced house. “I learned it was there after wondering why so many men were queueing to get in on Friday mornings,” Noémie says.

There are no bars where you can relax over a beer or sip a cocktail on Rue Malibran, but Place Flagey makes up for that. It took about six years for the largest square in Brussels to be renovated but now the area is abuzz with bars, restaurants and other amenities. 
The famous Café Belga on the corner is always busy, especially when the sun’s out. “You can often find me there,” says Noémie, “but I also love Le Murmure (18 Rue du Belvédère) and Bar du Marché (12 Rue A Dewitte).” For a Portuguese beer like Super Bock or Sagres, O Regua is the place to be (26 Chaussée de Boondael). The square also houses the popular Irish pub De Valera’s, with a big screen where football and rugby fans gather to watch live matches and a terrace looking out on the famous Ixelles ponds.

Locals agree that the two ponds and their green surroundings serve as the perfect spot to go jogging, read a book or catch the last rays of autumn sunshine. Although the square is surrounded by busy traffic, it still oozes a buzzy vibe. There are kids playing with the water fountains, local less-fortunates begging for money, and musicians and young artists doing their thing. “In the years I’ve been living on Rue Malibran, I’ve noticed a lot more young and creative people coming to settle here,” Noémie says. “The campuses of both La Cambre and Brussels Free University (ULB) are nearby, creating an inspiring atmosphere. Young people living in Rue Dillens (just off Malibran), for instance, started throwing Oh My Garden concerts a while ago. They provide their gardens and music, and people who find the flyer or check their Facebook page are welcome to join in. It’s a great way to meet new people.”

ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

PROPERTY

On Rue Malibran you’ll mainly find terraced apartments with balconies. Rent for a two-bedroom apartment costs about €950. The closer you get to the ponds, however, the prettier the mansions get and the higher the rent. When buying property, prices start at about €2,000 per square metre, according to www.logic-immo.be.

TRANSPORT

Hop on and off trams 81 and 83, buses 38, 59, 69 and 71 and Noctis night bus N09. There’s a Villo! bike station on Place Flagey and usually a few taxis waiting by Café Belga as well. Parking in the area is difficult, but there’s always space in the underground car park adjacent to Café Belga.

MEET THE NEIGHBOURS

As well as Turkish and Moroccan families, the Flagey area is home to a big Portuguese community. In recent years, it has also become more popular with young people.

IN & AROUND RUE MALIBRAN

DE VALERA’S

Irish pub – one of several in a 1km radius. A good place to watch sports. 17 Place Flagey; www.flagey.eu

FLAGEY

Popular cultural centre at the very heart of Place Flagey. www.flagey.be

FRIT FLAGEY

Is this the frietkot with the best fries in Brussels? Follow the smell of deep-fried potatoes, join the queue on Place Flagey and find out for yourself.

L’ARGANIER

The healing properties of Argan Oil are world renowned. Try it out for yourself. 63 Rue Malibran; www.larganier.be

NOVA PRIMAVERA

Well-stocked Portuguese grocery store with a good selection of wines. 80 Rue Malibran

All pictures by Max Pinckers